Recently, I had a conversation with a gentleman about the rules for choosing a men’s jacket, and we came to the conclusion that many men do not know the basic principles. And this discussion started because I noticed one mentor with a large audience, and his jacket was buttoned on the bottom button! You surely remember that this is highly undesirable, and one should never do it! The opinion of a leader serves as an example for all of us, and there is a large audience following him, who learns from him. Therefore, today I would like to discuss the basic rules for choosing a men’s jacket: what material it should be, how to make it more formal, which color to start with, and the main recommendations for fit.
When we want to buy a jacket, naturally, we ask ourselves how to choose it, and first of all, what color should it be. Many mistakenly think that it’s best to buy a black jacket or suit. This is not the case because black is a separate color that is quite difficult to wear. Of course, you can buy a black suit, but I would buy it only if I already have 4-5 jackets of other colors in my wardrobe. As many publications and magazines note (and I fully agree with them), the first jacket or suit should be blue. The only thing I would add is that blue is very diverse, and if you want to emphasize your figure even with color, choose dark blue. It is the most versatile color that easily combines with other colors, and it will be easier to pick accessories, shoes, and shirts to go with it.
Now that we’ve covered the color, let’s move on. I would buy the first jacket made of 100% wool. Please, do not buy jackets with synthetic materials added. Typically, such jackets are of poor quality, and their fit and cut leave much to be desired. You won’t achieve the desired effect, and all your efforts will be in vain.
Jackets can also be made of different materials: in summer, it can be linen, cotton, cashmere, and one of the most expensive is a vicuña wool jacket. This is a very rare material that requires a huge amount of raw material, and unlike the wool used to produce ordinary jackets, vicuña wool does not cause allergies since it lacks certain microorganisms. Animals for this material are raised in special places, and a large amount of raw material is needed to collect even a small amount of material for your product.
The highest quality level is considered bespoke tailoring, where the product is fully tailored to you and requires several fittings. There is also the made-to-measure option, where you have one fitting, and on the second occasion, you receive the finished product. And finally, there is the ready-to-wear option, which you can find in many stores. In this case, you come, try on, choose, buy, and leave. However, almost always such a suit also requires adjustments by a tailor to fit it to your figure.
Basic Rules
Let’s move on to the basic rules for determining the size of the jacket. One of the most important aspects is size. The jacket should always be chosen according to your current size. If you buy a jacket one or two sizes larger, you won’t be able to emphasize your individuality, and if it’s a size smaller, then most likely the jacket will be uncomfortable to wear: the lapels will not fit snugly to the chest, the length of the jacket will be too short, and it will not be able to emphasize your figure – which is the main function of clothing, emphasizing your individuality and giving confidence in everyday life.
I do not recommend buying low-quality jackets. Usually, such jackets contain synthetic materials, their lapels are always narrow, and a lot of adhesive materials are used inside. A quality jacket always has a canvas interlining (made of cotton with the addition of horsehair), which provides a better fit and mobility. Lapels should have a good width, usually from 9 centimeters and more. I even specially measured the width of my lapels 😅 – they all start at 10 centimeters. If we’re talking about a double-breasted jacket, then its lapels are usually even wider.
Not only the material should be natural, but also the buttons and other hardware elements should be made of natural materials, for example, horn. Good buttons and hardware always look expensive and high-quality.
I also recommend buying jackets with two side vents. They better emphasize the back, and I prefer patch pockets on jackets – it softens the strict look and gives a careless look.
And finally, what I want to add: I do not advise wearing a jacket separately from a suit. In this case, it’s best to buy an odd jacket that can be easily combined with other wardrobe items. I don’t wear a jacket with a tank top that has prints because it’s too flashy. I don’t have such tank tops in my wardrobe at all, and I advise you to do the same 🙌🏼
To avoid misunderstandings, I want to say that today we discussed the classic style, which is different from street style and other fashion trends. I hope this information will be useful for you, and thanks to this article, you will be able to choose a good jacket for yourself! I will be grateful to everyone who shares this article with friends and the audience so that there are no more leaders with opinions who button up the jacket on the bottom button!
P.S. Oh, I almost forgot! When you sit down, you should also unbutton the buttons on your jacket.
Fact in the Spotlight
Interesting fact about Mercedes: The logo featuring a three-pointed star was conceived in the distant year of 1909 and symbolized the brand’s superiority on water, land, and in the air, which was explained by Daimler’s production of engines for ships and aircraft.
Quote of the Week
Believe you can, and you’re halfway there.
Theodore Roosevelt
That’s all for today. See you on Saturday next week!
Yours sincerely, Anton Masko